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These are 3″ sized seed grown T. scopulicola hybrids. As you can see, I really do like the choice to combine a scopulicola and peruvianus to produce thick ribs and blueish hued epidermis. Yes, we grew them in our garden from seed and the kids did the uppoting ourselves. Only 6 of this lot available
The set you receive will be similar to the ones you see here, but they all definitely want a new life in a 3-4 inch pot
KIverson crossed an Australian scopulicola with the peruvianus Althea to produce this killer plant. It’s going to have great spination and the color from Althea will be really nice to see.
NZ grower El Chopo created this hybrid with new zealand clones, and that Martin being used was a super gorgeous blue boy.
Appalachian Echinopsis made this cross of a scopulicola and a colorful flower hybrid. The phenotypes have varied between the seedlings, I can’t wait to see what flower we get. Getting short spines on a verdant green column and colorful flowers is everyones hope with these types of hybrids.
A Prickocereus cross made here in our garden. Our blue peruvianus Los Gentiles, crossed with our scopulicola WormZed’s. It’s always been a goal to make our own blue short spined column, here it is.
You will receive one of each of these crosses in the mentioned sizes. There may be some small differences between seedlings but thats the fun in seed grown plants. Each one can be just slightly different from the rest, and is a great reason to diversify even within the same type of hybrids. You can be sure to trust that we grew these plants ourselves. We sowed them indoors initially then when they were ready, moved them outside.
These ornamental plants are grown outdoors in full Southern California sun, no shadecloth, no greenhouse.. They are healthy but some have some blemishes and marks, maybe evidence of old pests even. We do our best to keep them healthy. I’ve recently knocked it down with an insecticide and fungicide. Plants sent unpotted or bare root when dry.
These ornamental plants are grown outdoors in full Southern California sun, no shadecloth, no greenhouse.. They are healthy but some have some blemishes and marks maybe evidence of old pests even. We do our best to keep them healthy. I’ve recently knocked it down with an insecticide and fungicide. Plants sent unpotted or bare root when dry.
I use hormodin3 rooting hormone and I like to dry for a week or two on their side exposed to air. When calloused I root them in pure coco coir or potting media. I stand them up and keep them dry. Warmth at the base with a heat mat in winter helps or warm direct sun in the morning for 2-3 hours. I then taper in more sun around lunch and then all day if you can without burning it. Small sips of water as the medium dries to tease the roots out. This can be 2 weeks to 2 months. When roots arrive then I pot them in soil. And let them get some water. Or you can do all of this in the same pot of soil if you like.
T5 full spectrum bulbs or a good LED vipar spiderfarm hlg is good. You can dive into ppfd and lux etc
Have heat mats that have a thermocouple set to 75* in the soil. You don’t want the soil to get too hot so it must be regulated.
Use clean new soil. Pasteurize in the microwave if you so choose. Start your seed with a soak of hydrogen peroxide as that helps slightly soften the kernel. Some people like to go a bit stronger with fungicides to start with too.
I Feed often . Kelp or a good liquid nutrient. They are fairly hungry plants even at this size. Mycorrhizae when you can. Beneficial microbes are great too.
Humidity domes for 2-3 months is what I use to get them to germinate and grow to the size where they can acclimate to no domes. Some people use takeaway containers as they can hold the moisture in indefinitely without having to refeed or water. Most important is find what works for you!